Bethany HamiltonHeart of a Soul Surfer—Bethany Hamilton

by Jeannette White
Photos by Noah Hamilton

She never saw the shark coming.

But Bethany Hamilton did see the water around her turn blood red. She saw the crescent-shaped gouge in her surfboard. And, to her horror, she saw just a stub where her left arm had been.

No one would blame the Hawaii teenager, who barely survived the tiger shark attack, if she never set foot in the ocean again. After surgeons closed her wound, Bethany tried to imagine becoming a surf photographer instead. But less than a month later, the sea beckoned and Bethany couldn’t resist. At first, she toppled from her surfboard again and again. Her dad, an avid surfer himself, cheered her on while her older brothers photographed her attempts. When Bethany finally rode a wave, tears of happiness streaked her face.

“The accident hurt my surfing because I paddle way slower, and there are a lot of little things I won’t ever be able to do,” says Bethany.

Still, she worked hard to adapt. When heading through oncoming waves, for instance, Bethany used to grab her board with both hands; now she uses a single hand strap across the center.

Bethany’s life changed dramatically in other ways, too. People are always intrigued by shark attacks, and reporters scrambled to deliver the story. Bethany went from being a 13-year-old who loved watching “Leave it to Beaver” and playing kick the can to being a kid in demand.

Bethany Hamilton surfingShe was interviewed by 20/20, CNN Live and countless others. She was flown around the country to be on TV shows with Oprah and Billy Graham. Fan mail and money for medical bills poured in. Bethany received a 2004 ESPY award for Best Comeback Athlete, and YM magazine called her the “Bravest Girl in America.”

Bethany isn’t crazy about interviews, but she tells her story over and over, seizing the chance to share her faith in God. “I’ve seen Him give people hope and courage through my story,” says Bethany. “So I don’t really know what God’s plan is, but it’s obviously working together for good.”

She encourages kids with disabilities to chase their dreams. “I think that if you dwell mentally on your ‘disability,’ you’ll limit your ability,” she says. “So just give life your all and have fun with it.”

To Bethany’s relief, Rip Curl kept sponsoring her and she trained for hours a day, eventually traveling worldwide to compete. Homeschooling allows Bethany, now a junior, to study on the road. “Plus surfing counts as P.E.!” she says.

Bethany has a prosthetic arm but rarely uses it. After surgery, she almost fainted at the sight of her stitched limb, which she calls “Stumpy.” But now she likes her new look.

Despite the injury, she mostly wears styles she’s always loved – surf clothes and swimsuits. “I did stop wearing long-sleeve shirts unless it’s really cold, ‘cause I don’t like the look of the shirt sleeve hanging empty or tucked in. I’d rather sport Stumpy in a short sleeve or tank top.”

She buys sandals instead of shoes with laces, and her mom pre-ties her swimsuit tops.

On land and at sea, Bethany’s surfing adventures show no sign of stopping. Claire’s now sells accessories and a perfume line named for her – Stoked and Wired. And coauthors helped her write a book called “Soul Surfer: A True Story of Faith, Family, and Fighting to Get Back on the Board.” A documentary is next.

Bethany is enjoying the wild ride, catching each wave as it comes. Her long-term goals? “Just to see what God wants me to do. Maybe college, maybe pro surfing, maybe public speaking, maybe missions work. Maybe all of that,” she says. “I’m just taking life one day at a time.”

World VisionHelp Bethany Surf for Children in Crisis by donating to World Vision. www.worldvision.com

www.bethanyhamilton.com

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